Arts, Collection, Edinburgh

Interview #10: Yasmin Everley Jewellery

What looks like this year’s FINAL BloggED INTERVIEW tells us about Yasmin Everley’s jewellery collection, her design aesthetic and what it’s like to be a young jewellery designer. Remember, that 10% of her sales until the end of April will go towards ECFS’ final charity total, so if you fancy a piece, then take a look at her blog and the Joy Everley website.

Name, age, where do you live?
I’m Yasmin Everley, I’m twenty-three and I live in London.

Where and what did you study?
I just graduated in Classical Studies at University of Manchester but now I would like to study silversmithing as well!

What made you want to become a jewellery designer?
My mother is a jewellery designer and I started designing with her when I was about eleven so in hindsight it seems like the obvious choice. I used to want to work at the British Museum and I was only designing for fun but when the Beetle Collection started selling well I realized I could actually make a career of it!

Joy Everley at 7 Newburgh St, London

Joy Everley at 7 Newburgh St, London

Bugs seem to be a prominent part of your collection. How come?
Insects are just fascinating, they make up about 80% of the species on Earth. There is a long history of insects being used in jewellery, their iridescent wing cases used like jewels and both Herodotus and Aristophanes refer to the old men of Athens wearing golden crickets in their hair. They also epitomize the mantra of ‘live fast, die young and leave a beautiful corpse’ since so many species only live twenty-four hours. I also wanted to challenge the notions of what is desirable or repulsive. A lot of people are afraid of spiders but once transform it into silver with gold plating and diamonds it becomes something beautiful. I am also heavily influenced by The Mummy.

Do you feel that being so young in the jewellery business is an advantage or a disadvantage? Why?
I am not sure if it makes much difference, it’s more about your attitude.

How do you see your business progressing in the next few years?
I have a new collection based on Art Deco typography which will be coming out in a couple of months and am working on another but I am keeping that one secret! I obviously hope to build up a reputation as a designer but I would rather take my time to grow instead of having short-lived success.

Yasmin Everley 1

Yasmin Everley 3

Do you think that social media is integral to design/fashion business these days?
Social media is absolutely integral to the fashion industry, particularly for young designers who have not built up a brand name. It allows you to have a relationship with your customers in a way that is lost with ecommerce. The flipside of this is that some people are very good at manipulating social media and gather a huge number of followers before they have developed their product so you end up with a brand that consists of nothing but hype!

Where can we find you on social media?
I am making a real effort to get involved online though I am shockingly bad with computers. I started out with Facebook (www.facebook.com/yasmineverley) and my blog (yasmineverley.blogspot.com) then Twitter (@yasmineverley). I am really getting into Instagram (@YasminEverley) and just started a Tumblr (yasmineverley.tumblr.com)

Do you have a favourite jewellery designer?
Rene Lalique is an obvious source of inspiration for all jewellery designers. Jordan Askill has shown how boundaries can be pushed using the new developments in jewellery manufacture. Maria Black is just the best example of how to keep your collections simple and balance originality with commercial appeal.

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We were sorry to be unable to feature your designs at our show this year. Is there a place for jewellery on the catwalk?
At the moment I am only working with precious metals (gold and silver) which is impractical for the catwalk. This is largely due to the small scale – to create a piece large enough to be clearly visible for the audience it would have to be very large which would make it expensive and VERY heavy! Also my Beetle Collection would be particularly impractical since the little pincers and legs would be liable to tear the garments during the quick changes backstage! There was a great example of a jewellery designer who has adaptions for the catwalk at the ECFS. Eleanor Amoroso’s tasseled designs have commercial appeal as jewellery but her dresses are so striking for editorial purposes. I would like to create body pieces related to my collections that are suitable for catwalk.

Greatest moment/achievement as a designer to date?
Probably the most rewarding thing is working in my mother’s shop and hearing people get excited about my designs, not knowing that the sales assistant in front of them actually the designer! Being a finalist in the Wolf&Badger Graduate Design Awards was a huge honor, especially when you look at past winners such as Smith/Grey and my amazing fellow finalists like Sophie Wetherell whose menswear was in the ECFS this year.

Ultimate goal?
It’s quite a big aim but one day I would love to be able to have some influence on the way the jewellery industry works. Currently it is almost impossible to trace metals and stones back to their source. An effort has been made with Fair Trade Gold but it is not easy to access. Everyone has heard of ‘blood diamonds’ though the diamond industry is thoroughly regulated and actually the majority of gold is owned by large banks which are often involved with arms trade and other unethical businesses. The manufacture of jewellery will never be totally eco-friendly and ethical, by its very nature it is extracting materials from the ground, but I wish to have an impact on making it more accountable and traceable.

Any advice for any jewellery designers/designers of any kind?
Look around you at everything. If you want to be a jewellery designer, the worst thing you can do is look at other jewellery designers because you will probably end up plagarising their work. Look at art from ancient to modern, photography, read. Gather as much as you can until you have one small moment of inspiration to expand on

ECFS JE2

With many thanks to Yasmin for taking the time to answer these questions, and being a constant generous supporter of ECFS 2013!

Words: Adam Brady

Links:
http://yasmineverley.blogspot.co.uk/

http://www.joyeverley.co.uk/

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Around Town, Edinburgh, Interview

Interview #9: Neil Barton

Did you notice the hair styling at the show on Saturday? We are proud to have collaborated with the brilliant Neil Barton hair salon for ECFS 2013. Their creative vision and talent helped us form our aesthetic; soft, sultry and romantic in the first half, followed by something darker and sexier in the second. We wanted to create something magical and out of the ordinary to really offset the clothing. Here is our interview with Neil himself…

Georgia, angelic in the first half: photography Kirsty Stroma

Georgia, angelic in the first half: photography Kirsty Stroma

Martha, sleeker in the second half: photography Caitlin Warther

Martha, sleeker in the second half: photography Caitlin Warther

What made you want to be a hairdresser?
I have always been interested in art and fashion and love how you can transform somebody’s whole look by changing their hairstyle through a cut or colour. I love how you can make somebody look good on the outside and feel great on the inside as well. For me this is very satisfying.

How did you start out the industry?
I started my hairdressing career in 1998 after deciding to leave art college. I started in a leading Edinburgh salon, Paterson SA after speaking to the owner, George Paterson. He really inspired me – he achieved a lot in his career, did lots of photographic work in hair and fashion and also travelled the world doing seminars. Like he was, I am very artistic and thought this would be a great industry to be involved in.

What were your goals when setting up your salon?
My main goals were to create a fashion-forward team that was trained to the highest standard and that had a passion for quality of service as well as cutting edge creativity. I also wanted to create a relaxed, enjoyable environment that appealed to all.

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Why did you choose Edinburgh over anywhere else in Scotland/ the UK/ the world?
I trained in Edinburgh and spent a lot of time working very hard building up my clientele, so for me it was an obvious choice to choose Edinburgh. Edinburgh is a vibrant city that has a lot to offer. With regards to a specific location in Edinburgh, my only stipulation was to be near a main bus route and close to the railway station as a lot of my clients come from as far away as London, Spain and even Nigeria.

What are your goals for the future?
My future plans are to work on growing my business and raising hairdressing standards in Scotland as a whole. I will also continue my work as an Ambassador for Goldwell Hair Care – this is a huge responsibility but something I love as I get to travel the world teaching and doing various photoshoots. I have been working towards this for a long time so to have actually achieved this is huge for me.

What inspires the work you do?
Everything inspires me but I have to say that my team in the salon inspires me the most. Watching them grow and achieve their goals is the best motivator.

Are there any people who particularly inspired you?
Jesus Rodriguez and William Wilson from Goldwell inspire me. We work really well together as a team and the looks we create together are out of this world.

Would you say you had your own personal style, and if so how would you describe it?
I would say my own personal style is very British and quite classic. Simple black jeans with a tailored jacket and boots are my wardrobe staples. For me less is more.

Do you have a trend-based approach or is classic style more important?
I would say it’s important to strike a balance between the two.

How do you remain ahead of the curve when it comes to trends?
Throughout the year I am always collecting images from fashion magazines, creating multiple moodboards showing various fashion stories. I pay particular attention to all the fashion weeks and I try to interpret the key looks from the catwalks and channel them into creating more commercial versions of the looks for clients in the salon.

What is your experience in session styling and how does it compare to salon-based work?
Session styling is completely different to salon-based work as it is usually more about dressing a model’s hair and creating looks that’s are more fashion-based. Salon work is about creating looks that are a lot more wearable and practical.

What is your proudest achievement to date?
My proudest achievements to date would be making history as the first ever UK winner of the Goldwell Color Zoom trophy, finalising for Scottish Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards and winning a place on the Goldwell International Color Zoom Creative Team.

Neil-Barton

Words: Grace Bremner

With many thanks to Neil Barton for taking the time to answer these questions and Rebecca McCosh for all her help.

Where to find them: 28 Elm Row, Edinbugh, Midlothian, EH7 4RR
Number: 0131 558 8118
Website: http://www.neilbartonhairdressing.co.uk/

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Arts, Edinburgh, International

Collection #13: Melissa Thwaites

An ECA Fourth Year! We are so happy to have been able to host some ECA designers this year; in fact, our Creative Team, headed by 4th Year Product Design student Alex Shiel, is made up predominantly of ECA undergrads… the amazing visuals, wonderful graphics and fantastic music that they put together for the show showed that the whole ECA bunch will move on to bright things.

Melissa’s collection: A trembling energy; undulating, rippling, twisting hypnotically around the contours of the body. Naum Gabo’s organic sculptures of delicate twisting threads bound by layered interlocking rounded structures, mesmerise the eye to appear as if they are constantly in motion. In the collection, unfurling layers of delicate transparent fabrics reveal sharp synthetic bursts of colour, moody blues and hypnotic sharp greens are sliced up to create a depth of colour that plays on motion. Reverberating colour multiply into a bold print that cuts and slices organic imagery, until transformed into strong organic twists and turns that resonate along lines of the body in both leather and knitted pleating. Gaining a feeling of freedom as fluid layers play with motion and colour, this undulating energy moves languidly, savouring the form and naturally progressing to its final destination.

melissathwaites

http://melissathwaites.wordpress.com/

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Collection, International

Collection #7: Naomi Barber Rodgers

naomibr

Naomi is based in Nottingham, United Kingdom. She studied at Nottingham trent. Her collections are produced in United Kingdom.

Intensely coloured areas adopt vivid iridescent like qualities amid an expanse of grey tones. A collection of innovative fabrics inspired by selective colouring in photography. Using light and shadow as a gauge for transparency and highlighting achromatic areas with flashes of colour.

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http://www.notjustalabel.com/naomi_barber_rodgers

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Collection, International

Collection #6: Olivia Hearnshaw

Olivia Hearnshaw is a womenswear designer recently graduating from the University of Brighton, where she studied Fashion Design with Business Studies. Previous experience includes internships at Richard Nicoll and French Connection. Her inspiration and aesthetic is strongly influenced by shape, mood and simplicity, her graduate collection explores circular pattern cutting.

Click to see more HERE.

oliviahearnshaw

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International

Fashion Weeks Report – Holly Wignall

Well, the international fashion weeks are over now – but of course, it’s not really over until ECFS has finished… The show takes place in under a week at Edinburgh’s Assembly Rooms. If you haven’t got a ticket yet for Saturday 16th March, please do so HERE!

Many thanks to Holly Wignall for compiling these Twitter inspired Fashion Week reports!

Check out Style.com for pictures.

New York

Wednesday 6th, 9am – THAKOON ADDITION:
A fantastic start to NYFW: fresh, crisp tailoring combined with oversized silhouettes and geometric cuts, all the while maintaining intriguing experimentation with pattern and texture.

Thursday 7th, 10am – BCBG MAX AZRIA:
Oversized parkas and beanies thrown atop luxurious leather skirts with highly decorative shirts or dresses, this collection is more pretty practicalities than 90s grunge.

Friday 8th, 1pm – JASON WU:
Cinched waists, strict tailoring, fur pelts and snakeskin – his trademark gowns take a backseat as AW 13/14 sees a darker side of the spectrum for Jason Wu.

Saturday 9th, 12pm – PRABAL GURUNG:
A show of two halves saw militaristic with a sexy edginess and immaculate tailoring flow freely into a sea of silk gowns.

Sunday 10th, 4pm – DIANE VON FURSTENBURG:
A 70s inspired collection filled with flirtatious fun, DVF clearly knows her audience with feminine shapes combined with bright colours and patterns.

Monday 11th, 8pm – MARC BY MARC JACOBS:
In this personal favourite, Jacobs combined 40s hues and silhouettes with 70s glamour and a modern twist of geometric prints to capture a quirky sophistication that is so quintessentially Marc Jacobs.

Tuesday 12th, 12pm – RODARTE:
Gothic grunge princesses roamed the runway as the Mulleavy sisters once again proved themselves as the Queens of Cool in this nonchalantly edgy collection.

Wednesday 13th, 8pm – PROENZA SCHOULER:
Consciously moving away from exploring angles, PS offered a much softer collection that saw a super-refined clinical and clean approach, among a few fabulously crafted skirts.

Thursday 14th, 2pm – RACHEL ROY:
Neutral tones, feminine tailoring and beautiful attention to detail that perfectly fit the transition from day to night.
London
Friday 15th, 8.45pm – SASS & BIDE:
Monochrome with bursts of magnolia, flirtatious origami-cut flashes of flesh, S&B really created a modern day warrior with this striking collection.

Saturday 16th, 7pm – HOUSE OF HOLLAND:
Explosion of prints? Bright bursts of colour? Carefree, flamboyant attitude teamed with 80s nostalgia? This can only mean one thing – HoH.
8pm – DAVID KOMA:
With the structured leather and sculptured silhouettes, it’s clear to see Koma’s love of vinyl reflected in this season’s texture-heavy collection.

Sunday 17th, 2pm – VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL:
There’s never a dull moment in the world of Westwood, and this season was no exception! Clownish war-paint, womanly outlines and heavy-duty layering are in store for AW 13/14.
3pm – TOPSHOP UNIQUE:
Models of the moment Delevingne and Dunn perfectly portrayed British youth in this 90s-throwback grunge ensemble of leather cropped-tops concealed beneath oversized knit and fur.

Monday 18th, 4pm – BURBERRY PRORSUM:
Romance was in the air as soft trenches and heart-print pencil skirts glided down the catwalk to the melodic tones of Tom Odell at this beautifully tranquil show.
6pm – GILES:
Ethereal, piercing and intricate, it’s obvious to see the Miss Havisham/Ice Queen inspiration behind this hauntingly beautiful collection from Giles.
7pm, TOM FORD:
Mainly tasteless and garish with only a couple of covetable pieces. An untamed explosion of print and fur. Simply too much! All in all a very disappointing comeback.

Tuesday 19th, 1pm – MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF:
Alice in Wonderland meets Brothers Grimm with a sprinkling of Victorian glamour. A dark and sinister collection abundant in PVC. Unmistakably Meadham Kirchhoff.

Milan

Wednesday 20th, 2pm – GUCCI:
Tailored leather = extreme seduction. This season at Gucci is about enhancing a woman’s silhouette. Think the 50s with attitude. Very femme fatale.

Thursday 21st, 12.30pm – FENDI:
Karl Lagerfeld clearly loves a bit of the extreme. With a distinctly futuristic undertone, Fendi was all oversized fur and purple Mohicans with a touch of Nu-Rave neon – at times bordering on garish.
6pm – PRADA:
Heavy duty coats, cinched waists and off-the-shoulder dresses strutted down the runway teamed with wet hair, all the while portraying a certain unkempt seductivity.

Friday 22nd, 7pm – VERSACE:
A combination of PVC, loud prints, studs, spikes and sheer shirts. Sexy and untamed, this season was no exception from the classic Donatella treatment.

Saturday 23rd, 9.30am – BOTTEGA VENETA:
Luxurious and classic but with a more architectural approach, this season at Bottega Veneta combined volume, texture and structured shoulders to create a raw elegance.
3pm – JIL SANDER:
A classic collection from the Queen of Minimalism. Muted tones with the occasional burst of magnolia and indigo. Refined and understatedly elegant.
7pm – EMILIO PUCCI:
A very 60s bohemian inspired collection. Taking a step back from the classic overload of Pucci prints, this season let thigh-high boots and mini shifts do the talking.

Sunday 24th, 2pm – DOLCE&GABBANA:
The dynamic duo created 3 collections in 1; gold plated dresses with mosaics and frescoes, pristine and demure houndstooth pieces, and seductive red lace dresses. Extravagant and luxurious. Oh so Italian.

Monday 25th, 11am –GIANFRANCO FERRE:
Innovative, structured, sophisticated. Severity softened with layering and elaborately twisted waistbelts. GF presented a chic, clinical approach to wrapping up this winter.

Paris

Tuesday 26th, 6pm – ANTHONY VACCARELLO:
Dark and seductive. Full of supple leather and thigh – high skirt splits. A great start to the week.

Wednesday 27th, 6pm – GARETH PUGH:
Mainly monochrome with branches of the forbidden forest creeping up the hems of the dresses, this ethereal and eerie collection took us on a chilling and mystical journey.

Thursday 28th, 9am – BALENCIAGA:
Wang’s debut at the house did not disappoint. Filled with crisp tailoring and neat structures, this sophisticated collection stayed true to the Balenciaga name.

Friday 1st, 2.30pm – CHRISTIAN DIOR:
Elegant and sophisticated with a flirtatious edge, despite this being only his 2nd ready-to-wear collection for Dior, Simons’ idea of the “Dior woman” is already instantly recognisable.

Saturday 2nd, 10.30am – HAIDER ACKERMANN:
Fresh and pure with a certain military influence, this season saw clean-cut layering and relaxed, oversized tailoring. Nonchalant and chic.

Sunday 3rd, 8pm – GIVENCHY:
Unique, creative and playful. A mix of biker, gypsy, floral and urban, Tisci had fun with this collection, and it clearly paid off.

Monday 4th, 8pm – SAINT LAURENT:
A bit like a young teenage girl’s take on punk. Lumberjack shirts over dresses. When looked at separately there are a few covetable pieces, but at first glance not overly impressive.

Tuesday 5th, 4.30pm – ALEXANDER MCQUEEN:
Beautiful, unique and oh so quintessentially McQueen. With distinct Tudor and Elizabethan influences, this was more of a theatrical showcase than a fashion show.

Wednesday 6th, 10am – LOUIS VUITTON:
Despite it being more silk pyjama sets and nightgowns than anything particularly practical for winter, this show was still filled with desirable pieces, and still as beautifully seductive as ever.

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Collection, International

Collection #5: Xianfen Gu

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Xianfen is based in London, United Kingdom. She studied at London college of Fashion and graduated in 2012. Her collections are produced in United Kingdom.

The Chinese designer was born in Hubei. Since she was young girl, she knew that she would one day be a fashion designer and have her own brand. She was nominated as a new talent designer by China National Garment Association in 2005. After 2 years working for womenswear brand ‘fairfairy’ in Guangzhou, she moved to London and finished her MA in fashion design at the London College of Fashion. After graduating, she has had the opportunity to work for Kinder Aggugini. The invaluable experience gained from working with him inspired her to fulfil her lifelong dream.

Xianfen Gu’s AW12 collection is focussed on the meanings of nature surface, especially the texture of the poppy flower. The project is called the Repose because it denotes sleep and rest. The poppy works as an emblem to memorise the soldiers who died in World War I; not only because this flower grew in Flandres after the war, but also because the scarlet red colour elicits images of the blood of dead soldiers. Therefore, the representational character of poppies and such connotative meanings were carried through in whole collection.

xianfengu

http://www.notjustalabel.com/xianfen_gu

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Collection, International

Collection #4: a_s_r

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Tribe

Tribe looks at the survival of tribal communities in African and the Amazonian forest. Western cultures dismember the naturalism within their communities in order to sustain us. In destroying a civilisation it must accommodate the repercussions. Tribe endeavours to find correlations of survival, embellishment, identity and adversity in Western civilisation with the congregation of cultures together. Tribe look to the material values western cultures have within their homes and how tribal peoples use their body as a home to embellishment; with a key focus on 50-60’s wallpaper patterns, imprints within the skin, western gangs, crime, gun nation and the development of bulletproof clothing. Tribe express’ how western communities can protect themselves from street crime and the attack of our civilisation today, giving the garments an aesthetic functioning life on the body to serve and protect. The luxurious materials define the value and embellished body, finding an identity within the urban jungle. Tribe becomes parody of western culture questioning what it is to live?

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Check out a_s_r’s page on Not Just A Label here

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Collection, Feature, Interview, Lookbook, Street Style

Collection #3: 8CUB

ECFS chats to the boys behind 8CUB.

What is 8CUB?

Oli:
We’re a London based inspirational brand which we created out of our love for surf, skate and snowboarding, but really we just wanna make some funky fresh t-shirts which we would wear.

8cub 4

How did it come about?

Oli:
A couple of years ago we had the idea to create a clothing label, nothing big, just something fun where we can be creative and hopefully end up with a nice bit of clothing that other people would like too. A bit like FUBU (For Us By Us) maybe but without Ali G! We just want to make stuff at the end of the day. My thought was to have something I can have control over creatively, something that seeps into my day job but also gives me a release from that. I studied graphic design at uni and always had the dream of running a company that I could design t-shirts, artwork and type for and this was an opportunity to explore that.

Jeremie:
There is always that thought in the back of your mind when you see something and think, ‘I could do that!’ Now our thought is, ‘fuck it, let’s give it a go!’ Luckily Oli is likeminded in that sense and we both feed off that idea and just try and let things run, and see it grow organically from that.

8cub 1
So you are launching your first collection this Spring? Awesome!

Oli:
Yeh, we did a soft launch about a year ago but things dwindled a bit, as it’s a side project. We also spent some time exploring our identity and experimenting with ideas (drinking heavily and causing havoc), but we got this great opportunity from you guys and thought this would be perfect for us to launch fully and make shit happen! We also had Jeremie join us at the start of the year, due to his graffiti and fine art background he has been instrumental in creatively pushing things forward and getting it rolling.

Jeremie:
I‘ve always been up for starting and creating something new, like Oli, and as this sort of thing was always part of the culture I grew up in I got hooked quickly into trying to make it work. Our shared vision and concept has been pivotal to the development of 8CUB, but we’re also pretty relaxed about it and that helps feed our creativity.

8cub 3What’s the collection about?

Oli:
Bold colour, playful design but mostly something that you would wear for the rest of the summer! We want people to wear our tee’s into the ground, it becomes a part of your identity and something that when you look at it you think, fuck yeh I smashed that summer!

Jeremie:
As ideas have flowed we have looked at other ways of disseminating 8CUB, so t-shirts has now become beanies, jumpers and bespoke hardware (skateboard decks)!

8 cub 2Why 8CUB?

Oli:
Couldn’t find any 4letter.coms!

Jeremie:
We wanted something really simple but as we said it more the name really grew on us and had so many avenues to explore. Because it is meaningless we project whatever we want on it and it gives us complete freedom.

Thanks for talking to us. Famous last words?

The boys:
Thanks for the opportunity. We’re fucking cool. 😉

Interview: Amy Newsome

Links:

www.8cub.com

www.facebook.com/EightCub

www.twitter.com/8CUB

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